The fashion illustrations featured in the slide above were originally published in the Godey's Lady's Book, one of the leading periodicals of its time. To view illustrations of the 1860's, we direct you to our Civil War section. To view those beginning in 1880 through 1900, just follow this link: 1880 - 1900 SLIDES.

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"I'll Take You Home Again, Kathleen" sequenced by Barry Taylor
Written in 1875 by Thomas Westendorf, it was the most popular song in America in 1876

Terms Common to 1870's and '80's Fashion

  • ALSATIAN BOW: large ribbon bow worn in the hair.
  • ASCOT TIE: scarf which is knotted, with the ends then diagonally crossed.
  • BALAYEUSE: aka Dust Ruffle or Sweeper, a ruffle on the innerside of the skirt or dress hem to protect it from the street.
  • BLAZER: light weight sport jacket.
  • BRASSARD: ribbon bow worn on the arm.
  • BUSTLE: steel or whalebone strips put over back of petticoat to puff out pannier skirt. Also can be separate tie-on. Also referred to as tournure, pannier, and crinoline.
  • CAMARGO: a jacket with a pannier attached.
  • CAPUCHIN AKA CAPUCINE: a clock designed after those worn by Capuchin monks.
  • CARDIGAN: a collarless, front opening sweater.
  • CASAQUE: an outdoor jacket consisting of a bodice with a long basque down the front.
  • CHIGNON STRAP: a ribbon band worn underneath the hair to hold a hat in place.
  • CROMWELL SHOE: shoe much resembling those popular in 17th century, with tongues and buckles.
  • CURTAIN DRAPERY: N.A. phrase for pannier folds.
  • CUSHION PAD: little bustle stuffed with horse hair.
  • DIRECTOIRE COAT: an ankle length women's coat with a skirt in back and cut straight across above the waist line.
  • DIRECTOIRE GOWN : coat-like dress having a broad lapel, sash and guantlet cuffs.
  • DOLLY VARDEN BONNET: bonnet made of beaver with a plush ribbon and decorated with a crystal and silver bird.
  • DOLLY VARDEN DRESS: copy of 18th century polonaise with printed chintz panniers, buttons, and sometimes bow at waist.
  • DOLMAN: outdoor wrap of brocade, silk or wool, 3/4 in length and sleeves cut in one piece with the blouse body.
  • DOLMAN SLEEVE: one piece sleeve cut in body of blouse.
  • DRESSING GOWN: loose breakfast gown which later became tea gown.
  • EMPIRE DRESS: high waisted, full bodiced dress with puffed sleeves and narrowed gathered skirt.
  • ETON JACKET: short jacket with side lapels first worn by students of Eton College, England.
  • EUGENIE PETTICOAT: petticoat with attached bustles worn in early 70s.
  • FEDORA: hat of velour with high, slightly tapering crown.
  • FIGARO JACKET: short sleeveless jacket with scallops in back.
  • FORE-AND-AFT CAP: cap with a visor both in front and back.
  • FOUR-IN-HAND: necktie which was also known as a slipknot.
  • FROU-FROU DRESS: low corsaged dress with light pink underskirt and multitudes of flounces.
  • GARRICK: long velvet fur-trimmed mantle.
  • HENRY II TOQUE: large toque with ostrich feathers.
  • HIP BAG: another N.A. slang name for a pannier fold.
  • HUSSAR JACKET: jacket worn with a waistcoat, decorated with braiding and frog fastenings.
  • INVERNESS CAPE: large plaid woolen coat with elbow length cape of same plaid.
  • JABOT: lace or fabric ruffles extending down the front of a blouse.
  • JACKET: short jacket many times with a flared skirt to fit over bustle.
  • JERSEY SWEATER: close-fitting, slip over sweater, copied from a fisherman's sweater.
  • KNICKERBOCKERS: full knee-length breeches gathered at the knee, named after Father Knickerbocker (1674).
  • LANGTRY BONNET: a small close-fitting bonnet.
  • LORGNETTE: eyeglasses with handles.
  • MANTLE: a shawl-like garment with long front and back points, with side pieces forming sleeves.
  • MOTHER HUBBARD CLOAK: loose-fitting cloak
  • MOUSQUETAIRE CUFF: cuff which has a wrinkled effect.
  • NORFOLK JACKET: jacket which has box pleats or straps made from same material, passing over the belt up, extending from shoulder to hem in front and back, worn for sporting.
  • OFFICER COLLAR: a fur band worn around the neck.
  • PALETOT: a jacket with open-cuffed sleeves.
  • PANNIER: loop formed over the hip by drapping the the upperskirt.
  • PETIT CASAQUE: French name for polonaise.
  • PINAFORE DRESS: sleeveless, low necked overdress worn over a princess dress.
  • PLASTRON: trimming, many times different from dress fabric, on the front of a dress from shoulder to center waist.
  • POLONAISE: first an outdoor garment with straight front, then a dress with bodice and looped-up tunic, ending up as a negligee in later 70s.
  • POMPADOUR: style of hair made by drawing the hair staight up and back from the forehead.
  • POUF: fullness in the back of a dress formed by looping up the skirt; also used to describe a hairstyle.
  • PRINCE ALBERT COAT: a double-breasted frock coat usually with a flat velvet collar, becoming in vogue after a visit to the U.S. by Prince Albert in 1876.
  • PRINCESS DRESS: dress with a bodice and skirt cut in one fitted line from shoulder to hip or beyond.
  • RECAMIER HAIR: hair arranged with a high chignon and curls at the neck.
  • REEFER: a double-breasted close fitting jacket.
  • REGENCY COSTUME: a garment with upper skirt and petticoat of satin, topped by velvet jacket.
  • RUCHING A LA MEDICI: a ruff or ruching mimicking those worn by Catherine de Medici.
  • RUSSIAN BONNET: bonnet with a large bow tied under the chin, a steel embroided crown, and lace brim; or a scarlet velvet hat trimmed in black feathers.
  • SAILOR HAT: a stiff hat with a medium size brim and crown.
  • SHAWL DRESS: dress made out of shawls.
  • SLOUCH HAT: a felt hat with a crushable brim.
  • SPAT: a short covering for the shoe, usually of felt buttoned over ankle and instep.
  • SPRING BOTTOM TROUSERS: trousers flaring at the bottom.
  • SWALLOW-TAILED COAT : a riding coat with front corners of the skirt buttoned back to keep the coat lining from touching the horse.
  • TABLIER: horizontal trimming on skirt front.
  • TAM-O-SHANTER: a round flat cap with tight-fitting headband.
  • TIE-BACK SKIRT: a skirt with a drawstring to pull it back and loop it up.
  • TIED-BACK TIME: used to describe the period when tie-back skirts were popular.
  • TILTER: a tournure-like bustle with shirring containing the springs in a separate piece, and adjustable.
  • TIPPET: scarf which covered the neck and shoulders.
  • TOQUE: close fitting small brimless hat.
  • TUCKER: fabric used to cover the neck above a very low bodice.
  • TURRET BODICE: a bodice with tabs.
  • ULSTER: a fitted double-breasted coat which has several capes, first made from frieze (coase wool with shaggy mat on one side made in Ulster, Ireland).
  • VERDIGRIS: greenish-blue pigment.
  • VEST: another word for waistcoat. Also used to describe a woman's knit undershirt.
  • WATERFALL BACK : dress where skirt back is caught up at intervals with strings beneath the dress.
  • WATTEAU COSTUME: dress with Watteau pleats in back and a fichu-like fronted bodice.
  • WINDSOR TIE: a large, flowing bow tie.
  • WING COLLAR: high stiff collar with turned back corners.
  • ZOUAVE JACKET: jacket which is tight in back, but loose and open in front.
  • ZOUAVE PUFF: one or two horizontal pouch-like puffs at the back of the skirt made of thin material.


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